While the huge swell is likely to push the adrenaline levels through the roof for some locals surfers, the former world champion says big wave riding is not for everyone.

He's is well placed to advise inexperienced surfers about the potential dangers of getting out in big seas.

The Bureau of Meteorology has issued a dangerous and hazardous surf warning covering the two days. The huge seas are likely to peak around noon on Thursday at six to eight metres.

Damian says there are two attributes that lift some surfers into the big wave category.

"Not everyone will be able to get out there on Thursday or Friday," he said.

"There are two parts to big wave riding: there is the skill set and there is the bravery side of things.

"A lot of people have the skill set but in terms of pushing themselves over the line to do it, there are probably not that many in Port Macquarie.

"And that's okay because it makes the line-up (to catch the waves) is a little less crowded."

But he sounded a warning. "While it is good to push yourself, if you think you are out of your depth, don't try it," he said.

"The ocean is a merciless place at times and those big waves will just keep pumping you.

"While it is good to challenge and push yourself as a surfer, you do have to know your limits."

He says that testing yourself means understanding the risk and rewards.

"Waves are to be surfed and to have fun on. That's kind of what it is all about really," he says.

"Pushing yourself onto a big wave might not necessarily be classed as fun, but it is a different kind of rush.

"You can fall to negativity before you have even put a foot in the water. You can think too much about what could happen to you.

"But bigger waves mean bigger rewards and I have always concentrated on the rewards side of things. I understand the risk but work hard to minimise that side of things, if it comes at all."

Damian, who retired from the world circuit in 2013, said he's been out in 20 foot surf in Fiji, which almost cost him his life.

He says that experience saw him concentrate on not getting too overwhelmed and maintaining good fitness and cardio levels.

But what's it actually like paddling onto a big wave?

"The scariest part is committing to going out," he said. "Then you have to turn around and start paddling.

"But there is paddling and then there's the unconditional paddling where you have to be 100 per cent committed to catching the wave.

"Once you are on the wave the fear kinda goes and you focus, the adrenaline kicks in and that's just the best part.

"If you get a good ride, it is overwhelming. It is the best feeling ever," he said.

"The end game is to get to the end of the wave."

Damian has just returned from a few weeks surfing Indonesia where he encountered 10 foot swell at G-Land, also known as Plengkung Beach.

Describing the waves as "scary", he said he caught a couple of waves "where I was just screaming". He said the rush was enormous.

"When you start paddling you don't have time to think but you concentrate on what you have to do," he added.

Damian says he will likely head to Middles (off Flagstaff Hill) on Friday morning.

He says the southerly wind is likely to have dropped but the swell should still be coming in.

Also making news:

While you're with us, you can now receive updates straight to your inbox from the Port Macquarie News. To make sure you're up to date with all the news, SIGN UP HERE.